FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

To maintain the good quality of a screw clamp in the long-term, proper care is essential.


The function of a screw clamp is based on the friction and tilting between rail and sliding arm. It is important, therefore, that the rail is always kept free of grease, oil or dried glue. Particularly critical on the rail are waxes and release agents containing silicone. Such residues must be removed as quickly as possible using solvents, wire brushes or sandpaper. Both the spindle and the pressure plate joint should be lubricated regularly with a little oil. Spray oil is especially suitable for this purpose. In this way, the smooth running of the screw clamp is maintained for a long time with optimum clamping force.


If there is a grub screw on a malleable cast iron screw clamp, which prevents the sliding arm from slipping through, it can be readjusted by a quarter turn when the support starts to diminish. With all-steel screw clamps, attention should be paid to any shine forming on the rail, as this can lead to slipping of the sliding arm. If shiny spots are visible, they can be roughened on both sides with emery cloth in grain size 100 to ensure safe working again.



Different throat depths and clamping widths of the screw clamps can cause problems during storage.


A practical solution for this is a clamp trolley. Because this sturdy metal construction with rollers can hold the clamps sorted by size. In addition, a mobile clamp trolley enables more flexible and faster working, as all clamps are always at hand and clearly sorted directly at the point of use.


A further storage option is a stationary shelving unit where the clamps are simply pushed onto it.



In standard tin snips, edges and handle are traditionally forged into one unit. The force required for cutting is determined by the ratio of edge length to the

handle length.



Compound leverage snips comprise a cutter head and a handle. The compound action produces additional leverage.


Shape and straight cutting snips

Shape and straight cutting snips are real "all-rounders". They can cut through a metal sheet (straight-cut) as well as cut large and small contours or radii (outlinecut). In this case, it does not matter whether you are cutting at the edge (edge cut) or at the centre of a sheet. You can naturally use shape and straight cutting snips for notching-operations.


Shape cutting snips

Shape cutting snips are best suited when you want fine and narrow radius cuts near the edges of a metal sheet. You can use the delicately shaped edge of these snips to cut extremely narrow shapes or curves without any problem.


Straight cutting snips

Do you wish to cut a metal sheet at the centre and / or near the edges? Then the perfect tool for you is the straight cutting snips. You can use long edges of this tool to cross-cut and notch large metal sheets quickly and precisely with less effort.

Right cutting snips are sharpened and designed so that they can cut right radii (i. e. a curve from left to right) easily. Left cutting snips are the best for radius cuts from right to left.


The common perception is that, right cutting snips are for right-handers, and left cutting snips for left-handers. This is not true. In fact, it is the other way round. If you, a right-hander, are cutting a radius (see above, from left to right), using right cutting snips, you have to cut outwards from your wrist. With left cutting snips, (radius is then from right to left) you can cut inwards from your wrist. This is considerably more ergonomic. Try it out once!


Not only the quality of the snips influences the result. The correct handling of the tool also matters:


The metal sheet must be laid flat on the level jaw surface of the snips. Only in this way an optimum cutting pattern can be achieved by virtue of the cutting radii. It will warp if it is not flat on the jaw. Greater effort and shorter product life expectancy are the consequence of incorrect use.

 

For cutting, the snip jaws should be opened wide and the sheet metal pushed as far as possible into the jaws of the snips. The snips should not be completely closed when cutting: After about ¾ of the cutting length, open and close the snips again. Only in this way can a burr-free cut be made. If the snips are completely closed, small transverse tears occur with each cut at the end of the cut.


It is also important that hand tin snips are only used for cutting thin sheet metals made from soft metals and steel. They are not suitable for separating round and rectangular metal shapes such as wire. This would lead to blade breakage.



If the manual force is not sufficient for cutting the sheet metal, there could be two reasons for this. Either the blades are just dull, or the metal sheet may be too thick. When using hand tin snips, it is important to note that one should only cut sheet metals up to a thickness of 1.2 to 1.9 mm. This will vary depending on the type of sheet metal, however, as well as the quality of steel.